Bereche stands as the touchstone for us in bubblliciousness in the Vallée de la Marne. Both powerful and elegant, the Champagnes clearly show the focus and obsession the family has with farming -- the estate has been practicing biodynamics for the better part of two decades, an absolute rarity in the region. The current Brut Reserve is based on the 2021 vintage and displays lots of stone fruit, orange citrus and a strong stony minerality. There's also a lovely dollop of brioche and yeastiness as well. Champagne at its most Platonically delightful.