For purists, there is nothing like the Saar. Arguably one of the greatest wine-growing regions on earth, its magnificence resides in the way it yields intensity without weight, grandiosity without size. And as long as w’re throwing the adverb “arguably” around? Peter Lauer is arguably the dopest winemaker in the region, and his entry-level bottle, the “Barrel X,” is arguably one of the best values in Rieslingified electricity around, year in and year out. 2023 was a balanced vintage, and as a result you get all the galvanic charge here Lauer shoots for.