What do you do when you want Rayas Chateauneuf, but don't have $2K to spend? Charvin. Hipster somms and old man Robert Parker alike say as much (“I always find Charvin’s wines closest to those of Chateau Rayas, although the Charvin wines are slightly more concentrated.” -RP), and their effort from 2019 is as great as any in recent memory. Plums, grilled bread, garrigue, pepper, and a heady, incense-ey note all astonish in harmony. Great now with a decant, it will also cellar gorgeously. (All the magazines have given this 95's and 96's, if you're a numberhead.)