Cava: both serious AND fun. Serious: made in the Champagne method by obsessive grower-producers. Fun: just freakishly fun to drink. Just watch how the Catalonians do it: this is as ready for celebrations as it is for Monday nights; as perfect with oysters as it is with brunch. A traditional blend of the usual local Cava grapes (Xarello, Macabeu and Parellada), this is lively with citrus and white floral notes, with hints of bread and yeast adding structure and complexity. This spends two years on the lees (SERIOUS) but has a way of going down in less than 20 minutes (FUN).