There’s a French winemaker who always talks about his wines as having “Finesse et puissance” (finesse and power), and it always strikes me as just about the Frenchiest thing someone could say about their wine. Now 5th-gen winemaker Sebastien Latour would never say that... but that’s nevertheless *exactly* what came rushing into my forebrain when I had his new Plan de Dieu vintage. A mix of Grenache, Mourvedre, Syrah and Cinsault, the 2021 is spicy-fruited glory, with notes of cassis, black pepper, and toasted herbs; it's like finding a Chateauneuf at half the price! I recommend knocking a glass back and repeating after me: Finesse! Puissance!