Matthieu Barret was my favorite winemaker of 2016. And the love affair continues. It’s one of those rare instances where I agree with the meretricious ratings-dispensers (because boy do the wine mags lose their proverbial shizz over this wine). This is his top-end cuvée, and it spends one year in old wood followed by one year in concrete tank: the results? Black fruit like you’ve tasted in your dreams, smoked earth, licorice pastilles, violets, and dark black rocks. It has body, but it’s the laser-like focus and finish that beguile here. Less than 600 cases made, so get some, or gift some, soon.